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03/05/99

One Night in Bangkok Makes a Hard Man Humble

Fortunately we're here for longer than that, unfortunately we are here for longer than that.

Diving in Ko Tao (Gulf of Siam) was perfect, except for plankton-rich bad-visibility water. For anyone wanting to get certified in Paradise rather than some grim pool in SOMA or an old stone quarry in Indiana, head to Ko Tao. $150 gets you from beginner to Open Water certified. Regular dives, including all rental gear, was only $20 a pop. Highlights were school of baracuda and a potato grouper, but no Whale Sharks this time of year as hyped. Also, if anyone is looking for an amazking flexible, relaxing career, I will recommend they look into dive instructing. Demand is so high, they can just so up (get certified for $1000 or so) and then lead dive trips. Bored of Thailand? head to Australia, then Phillipines, then Chuk. Expect low pay and gekkos in the toilet, but demand is high and your certifications speak for themsleves.

We've come to Bangkok, simply to arrange travel logisitcs (visas, plane changes, and buses). Both been here before. Khao San Road (Travellers center for SE Asia) feels like Vegas these days. On the island a bottle of water was the island bot-in price of 15 cents. Around the city water is 10 cents. On Khoa San Road it is 30. But Bangkok, on the other hand seems cleaner, and brighter, less exhaust and traffic. Thai folks have been just great and wonderful as we remembered, but it's stilla huge city and we're looking to get out

Just rearranged travel plans for next two months. High Adventure Travel in SF booked us great tickets we've been able to change dates the whole way. Today we even changed an entire departure city (Rangoon instead of Bangkok .... nutty huh?). for free free free. So we need to check a couple more facts but right now our plans are. Leave for Loas (Vientiane) Sunday night. Travel north for 15 days there and cross into SW Chinese town of Mengla (don't like that name), and return to good roads and real communism. We hope to spend a month in Yunnan provice and maybe some time in Sizhuan and Ginxhou (sp???). The more we read and glean about Yunnan the more we know it should be a real adventure, overlooked by most, butencouraged by all (including the Chinese). From the capitol of Kunming, we can arrange a rare visa to enter Myanmar (Burma) from the north and have 3 weeks in that tragiacally beautiful nation to get down to Rangoon to get to our newly rearranged fligth to Bangladesh.

I'll write more tomorrow as email should be rare (it is outlawed in Myanmar!), but letters or aerograms or telegrams will ahve to suffice

Needless to say we miss everyone

Ted

tedinasia@hotmail.com

02/25/99

Ko Tao Now & Singapore Redux

Paradise-

Ko Tao island, Thailand. (Pranee bungalows, Hat Mai See for anyone who wants to jam out and join us) Taking a little break from our cultural journies for the easy paradise beach life. Feels trite, but the road has been hard and idylic island perfection so close. Diving is cheap (as is everything else) and that is what we will be doing. It took 34 straight travel hours to get here from Singapore - splept on a bus one night and a boat deck the next ... but you kbnow how it is!

Singapore Redux

Not the Orwellianseptic city of the future I had envisioned. Fascinating place for those that haven't seen it: it was my first time. The whole world seems to be crossing paths in that anomalous(sp?) city state. Just for the existence of it, we drank Singapore Slings in The Raffle's (super fancy pants colonialist hotel) Long Bar. We blew the budget to hell, but made sure we were out of town in under four days. Had a real great time eating swiss burgers with bacon, bagels and feeling clean. Sadly, unless COMMERCIALISM and SELF-ADVENCEMENT can be considered soulfull, the city-state displays a complete lack of soul. (At least from where we stood in the cheap seats.)

CRAZY PLAN CHANGE

Jules isn't that interested in Vietnam and I've been there, so we'll probably trade it for Burma/Myanmar. Our dream is to go Bangkok -> Cambodia -> Thailand -> Loas -> SW China (Yunnan Province is suposed to be the best of show. 30+ minority cultures and China is encouraging visitors at the moment, and maybe Sizhuan and Ghouxia Provinces) -> from Yunnan -> Northern Myanmar (supposed 4 overland border points all easy) -> Rangoon fly-> Bangladesh. We'll see in Bangkok if we can work it out. Anyone wanna join us anywhere? Let us know

tedinasia@hotmail.com