You can too- from Cairo

[Delhi to Cairo on a plane full of pilgrims: from Nade]

Had an amazing flight from Bombay: over the Arabian Sea ->Oman ->Landed in Sharjah, United Arab Emirate, but could not deboard -> back up and over the Gulf of Arabia -> over Saudi Arabia -> Over the Gulf of Aqaba -> Sinai -> Gulf of Suez -> Cairo Int'l Airport. Clear skies the whole way to see all the shimmering seas and hard yellow wind worn expanses of Middle eastern desert countries.

I had been gearing up for a gruellingly chaotic city, snarling traffic, mtns of burning garbage, droves of touts and some of the most annoying Muslim men that Allah has ever spawned. I've found only the slightest examples of any of the fears. Central Cairo (I have not got out to Old Cairo or the City of the Dead, or any real touristy stuff) reminds me more of Lisbon or 1988 Barcelona to be exact. Belle Epoch and even Deco buildings (not to mention century old obelisks, mosques and churches) run along the wide boulevards and intersections. I can spot the touts from 50 feet and they're sophmoric tactics are nothing comapared to the pro's in Delhi and Kathmandu. The stores have plenty of modern goods and their window displays are well lit and completely clean. The power supply is consistent and people actually consider it their own responsibility to not run into other people when walking down the street. Though I did see some destitue looking people I was only solicited by a single beggar the entire day. Throw in all the new food options, mint tea and apple hookahs (non-narcotic) and I'm the happiest clam this side of Malta.

Now I'm sure this is a case of being so down it looks up to me, but what a better way to approach this ancient land. I have the patience of a 30-year cave-dwelling asectic and creature comfort expectations lower than the release of Waterworld.

My Arabic formailites I learned in Bangladesh (Salaam a lay kums, khuda Hafez, Inshallah, Al'lah, etc.) work the same magic here and for the first time in my life I met someone with the same name as my third name: Nader. I think I will go by that name while I am here! [That does not mean that anyone other than my family or Jennifer Londer can do the same upon my return]

At the moment my itinerary may go something like this. Bus travel to southern Egypt to Aswan (via a desert oasis or too if it's not too too hot), felucca (traditional boat) up Nile to Luxor. Lots of exploring there. East to Red Sea: scuba dive. Ferry boat to SE Sinai Pen: Scuba dive and enjoy ancient relaxed port towns. Go inland to St. Catherines and climb Mt. Sinai to see sunrise from up top: listen for further commandements. And then head towards the uppermost point of the gulf of Aqaba and cross overland into Egypt. The temp in Cairo was only about 92 today, but should get worse worse (just like the touts) as I head into the south. Should all really suck, but I'm sure I'll manage somehow ... somehow ;)

TTFN

T-

tedinasia@hotmail.com
jalondon@rocketmail.com